Back in Kathmandu

Being back feels so comfortable and familiar that I find myself easily falling back into old routines of places to eat, shop + walk that I hadn't even remembered until being here again. Sometimes I move through the twisting lanes as if on autopilot and experience deja-vu at many a turn. I thought I remembered what a treasure trove of exploration the old city is, but now having explored so many other cities since my last visit, I can really appreciate it for what a rare thing it is. Kathmandu, at least certain areas, feels really old, and the layers upon layers of things built up over time tell such complex stories - blackened ghee from butter lamps burned, surfaces painted repeatedly, the patina of age worn off with repeated touching so that the original brass surface of the temples gleams, additions + modifications to brick buildings... It's a city to walk around slowly, taking in details as you never know what doorway may be a passage into a hidden courtyard with temple, or what shrine you may stumble across. Of each I dare guess there may be hundreds if not thousands - seriously.

Just yesterday I spent the day in neighboring Patan, a short ride over the river. We spent some days, and a night, here before and I longed to stroll again down those quiet lanes and witness the big Thursday turnout at the Kumbeshwor Shiva Temple. It began to rain during my walk and I realized that that might be the best time to walk around these old quarters - almost void of traffic, people clustered together in doorways awaiting a break, and frequent pagoda eves for me to stop and take shelter too as I stop to examine woodworking or other details. It forces time to stop and just absorb the whole scene.



Later - The rain has stopped for now and there's a respectable crowd at the Temple. The dogs, sheep + goats are still here too and looking as healthy as ever thanks to the prasad (offering food) that people hand-feed them. Kumbeshwor is one of only two five-tiered, pagoda-style temples in the valley and cuts a striking profile as it rises above all the low, brick buildings around. The murmur of people talking is punctuated by the ringing of bells - a tinkling from a shrine nearest to where I sit, a resonating Gong from the main temple, a sleigh-bell at another small shrine, and one most similar to an old-fashioned cowbell from the temple with the long line of people waiting to get in and present their offering. I leave from here to find my other favorite place in Patan - the double secret back way. Actually, I'm sure there's more than one, but this is the longest, and therefore best, that I've found yet here or in K-du proper. I find the courtyard without too much difficulty, memorable from the striking collection of old buildings in good repair that line it. More difficult is remembering the correct path. I duck through one low doorway, that leads into another courtyard, and through another doorway to a third, but then hit a dead end. I retrace my steps and try a different passage that I'd bypassed, but that one leads to a dead end too. I go all the way back to the first courtyard. So many doors + doorways... which to chose? I follow an old lady through one, and then another, before losing her as I stop to admire the buildings. Continuing on, I go through four more low passageways - and one that is so long it's pitch black inside - before finally popping out at a main road. A living labyrinth - and all just to provide access to the warren of homes. Is that cool or what?! That's what I mean by this place being great for exploration.

Some may argue that Kathmandu's not what it used to be... but you can say that for pretty much any place on the planet in this day and age. Lucky for me, despite it's flaws, I think it's still a very cool place. The fact that we've spent nearly 6 weeks here on this trip must speak for itself. Maybe some of these images will too, but just in case...

This image is one of the more elaborate and well-kept old homes that face onto the hidden courtyards mentioned. Typical courtyards I've seen are fronted by anywhere from ten to forty, 3-4 storey homes and each contains at least one or more shrines or temples in their center. This open courtyard layout seems to work well for the residents as there are always people hanging out, working or playing.

This old brass gate and lock are completely encrusted with black from years of age and the sticky residue left by burning butter lamps. As part of the prayer/offering ritual, people rub on posts, door headers, and any facial image - be it god or animal - while reciting their mantras. This allows for the gleam of the metal to shine through.

This is one of the thousands of small shrines that are tucked into every nook and cranny - or even smack in the middle of a road - around the old part of the city. Old trees, particularly banyan, are sacred to Hindus + Buddhists alike and are almost always tied with ribbons or have some place for people to make offerings at their base. This chicken was busy feasting on the rice offerings when I walked past.

Check the "link" for more photos from Kathmandu