Leaving Spiti

(Fri. 6.15.06) Stuck in the snow atop Rohtang La Pass (13,051') en-route from Kaza to Manali. What an incredible ride this has been so far! We left before dawn and had the pleasure of watching the sun rise over Spiti Valley. The road continued up + around through areas that continued to remind us of the American Southwest. (Imagine if there was a one-lane road hugging the walls of the Grand Canyon, about halfway down the rim, but that the rim was at around 12,500' and there were enormous snowy peaks rising above to 23,000' and a pale, milky blue river flowing below!) As we continued up + over to Kunzum La Pass (14,931') the peaks just seemed to SOAR overhead with fantastic glacial views. Descending to Batal on the Chandra River, the valley floor was littered with GIANT boulders that dwarfed our bus. The only signs of life were the few shepherds with their flocks of beautiful, long-haired goats. After a quick chai break we headed back up through the gorge of sheer black granite where greenery was taking hold wherever it could. High, thin waterfalls flowed down through thin crevasses, falling far below - Beautiful, crystal ribbons set against the dark backdrop.

(Later) For an hour now we've been stopped at the pass, caught in the traffic of Indian tourists come to see their first snow. Outside the bus window, a man sits on the frozen ground under an umbrella, bundled against the cold, selling roasted corn for a hard-earned 10 Rupee (20 cents) an ear. Stalls rent faux fur coats in all styles + colors for the ill-prepared tourists - Too weird! Little do they know that just a bit further on they could see some of the BEST views they could ever hope to see in their lifetime! I'm sure thankful I did!

(Still Later) Are we actually THROUGH this mess?! Almost? After 3 Hrs. it seems too good to be true! These Indians, so focused on the snow, just park and block the road at will and the road is just BARELY wide enough to pass. We finally arrived in Manali some 13 Hrs. later - cold, tired hungry. Grabbing our sleeping bags off the roof of the bus, water literally POURED out despite the rain covers. The worst casualties were three water-logged books, but everything else just needs to dry out. Bus travel here is NOTORIOUSLY slow and most road conditions are poor, but that's just one of the hurdles to cross if you want to experience India. So many times I find that the most difficult journey ends up being the most rewarding. At least thank God for that!

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