Land of Eternal Whitening Cream

I was prompted on this from a friends' recent e-mail about her second skin cancer diagnosis. Second, I may point out, after her complete shunning of the sun and prolific use of dermalogist-prescribed sunscreen post initial diagnosis + cancer removal.

I too was a sun goddess in my teen years - Baby oil or Ban de Soleil SPF 2, max, was my modus operandi. I lost count somewhere down the line of how many first and second degree burns I accrued on my fair, young skin. (Did you know that most people receive 80% of their lifetime exposure to the sun by 18 years of age?! A message to parents to protect your children.) So many so that I've been bestowed with vast constellations of freckles + moles that could challenge the skies on the darkest of nights. And though I've long been using daily sunscreen as part of my facial regime and ceased tanning, I must admit, I DO love that feel of the warm sun on my skin. Loving to spend time outdoors as I do, there's always that nagging fear in the back of my mind when I've been exposed for any length of time, even WITH 30 SPF. This has posed a pretty significant challenge to my daily activities traveling as I'm outdoors for 12-14 hours many days. You just can't USE that much sunscreen.

Beginning way back in India I started to pay close attention to what the local women do. This was the first country of the trip where women really made a strong effort to protect their skin from the sun. Here, being dark is a sign of poverty and low-caste while pale skin is a sign of wealth and priviledge. But the sun in India is STRONG, so what do they do? Use an umbrella. So simple, and so effective. It seemed a bit strange at first, but then I found that not only did it protect me from the sun, but from some of the heat as well. And when months later the sporadic monsoon rains came, from those too. And I've never looked back.

In Southeast Asia and China, the women REALLY take sun protection to extremes, for better and worse. It's been the subject of lots of international news coverage and maybe you've seen some of it -

From CNN - "Flawlessly milky skin is to die for," says a beauty website for Asian women.
Get-white messages, like this one are inescapable in this part of the world. Pale Asian models peer from the pages of glossy magazines, pout on billboards, ride on white horses in cinema advertisements and jostle for counter space at the local department store. They tout products such as Blanc Expert, White-Plus, WhiteLight, Future White Day, Fine Fairness and White Perfect.

Spurred on by modern marketing and a cultural history that cherishes fairness, hordes of women across Asia are slapping on whitening lotions, serums, correctors and essences to bleach their skins. But at what price? In what may be the biggest toxic cream outbreak ever, 1,262 people flocked to a hotline set up by Hong Kong's health department last week, after warnings that two whitener creams -- Rosedew and La Rose Blanche -- had mercury levels between 9,000 and 65,000 times the recommended dose.

(Photo: White or Wrong?! Can you believe this ad!!!)

"A white complexion was seen as noble and aristocratic, especially in Southeast Asia, where the sun was always out. Only those rich enough could afford to stay indoors, while peasants baked in the rice fields."

In their early bid to lighten up, Chinese ground pearl from seashells into powder and swallowed it to whiten their skin, while Japanese Geisha girls powdered their faces chalk white. This obsession with whiteness has not faded over time. A survey by Asia Market Intelligence this year revealed that three quarters of Malaysian men thought their partners would be more attractive with lighter complexions. In Hong Kong two thirds of men prefer fairer skin, while half the local women wanted their men paler. Almost half of Asians aged 25 to 34 years used skin whiteners in a business that some analysts have said could be worth billions of dollars.

Arriving in Southeast Asia, I've now got a few more tricks tucked up my sleeve. (Photo: Who is that masked bandit? The Vietnamese more than any other, don hats, full-face masks, long pants + opera-length gloves, a sexy touch, to block every possible inch of skin from the suns darkening rays. Think this is a bit extreme? Do you think the whole in the ozone is getting any smaller?!)

One sunny afternoon, a few weeks ago in the city of Hong Gai, we befriended a family as we were cruising around in the heat of the afternoon (with umbrellas, of course!). They invited us into their tree-shaded patio and plyed us with ice water as we chatted. Later, they encouraged us to take photos of everyone, and while our shady spot was nice, they had a great view of town from just a few feet away... in the sun. All the women REFUSED to come out into the sun, even for a moment, to have their photos taken.

A recent study found that 36% of US adults have a sunburn at least once a year. The incidence and severity of sunburn has increased worldwide, especially in the southern hemisphere, because of damage to the ozone layer. Ozone depletion and the seasonal ozone hole has led to dangerously high levels of UV radiation.

Here are some tips to remember so you're not another casulaty - Minimize sun exposure between the hours of 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Contrary to the common advice that sunscreen should be reapplied every 2–3 hours. Research has shown that the best protection is achieved by application 15 to 30 minutes before exposure, followed by one reapplication 15 to 30 minutes after the sun exposure begins. Further reapplication is only necessary after activities such as swimming, sweating + rubbing.

All the facts and stats aside, the color of your skin seems to be more about what's in vogue than what's healthy. You've got to wonder how it is that women in the East risk mercury poisoning to get lighter skin while women in the West brave skin cancer just to get a little browner...

It's Hammer Time!

Sure, I've haggled over fruit prices in more than a dozen different countries from El Salvador to Italy to Cambodia, I've fought numerous times with taxi drivers in India over the "No, that price was for one person, not two" game, negotiated the price of many a Thai souvenir, and even fought to get the high admission of China's attractions lowered to a student rate (even at the age of 35), but all of those pale in comparison with my daily, and sometimes relentless, experiences dickering over Dong in Vietnam. (To India's scheming credit, I'll give them the runner-up spot) Here, virtually EVERYTHING is negotiable and prices are RARELY posted. When asking for the cost of something, there's always that perceptible hesitation as the vendor sizes you up, trying to determine the maximum you'll be willing to pay. Once you get familiar with what the typical price range for a specific item is then you can just laugh and throw back the price you KNOW it should be. Sometimes they laugh back too and immediately cave, because it IS a game and you've called their bluff. We witness locals going through this same exercise all the time, so we know we're not the only ones, it's just that we're more likely to overpay in our naivete. Sometimes there's more discussion and compromise at a middle ground. And sometimes a vendor throws out a price 3-4 times above the norm or even what you JUST SAW change hands right in FRONT of you. In that case, I just laugh and walk away, ignoring their calls to come back (If they even do, sometimes they're just fine waiting for the next sucka), because just on principle I never give my sales to the greedy ones. But basically, EVERY SINGLE THING you need to buy throughout the day involves this level of work, and it DOES get old after awhile. Still, it's just the way things are done in this corner of the world, so you'd better be prepared for it.

Since we've dealt with this Olympic-level haggling for a total of four months now I've been starting to wonder if "I" should be the one to cave. I've seen with my own eyes how hard the produce ladies work, many of them growing what they sell, and only for a FRACTION of what prices are at home. Still, they seem to (dare I say) admire me for bargaining like a local. The little ladies in their conical hats look through my plastic bags, smiling at my purchases, asking what I paid for this and that and even give me a thumbs-up "Vietnam!" when I've paid the locals price for something. So, I try not to hammer them TOO hard, but regardless, I know I'm probably paying at least a small premium for most things.

The other day though, trying to depart Dong Hoi city, we had an altercation that's only happened one other time here. Maybe it was the rare, mid-afternoon coffee that helped to get us both riled up, but when the girl at the ticket window wouldn't sell to us, and then the bus driver demanded twice the price that was posted RIGHT ON THE WALL, we both put our foot down. We were willing to pay a small surcharge for our backpacks, but not DOUBLE PRICE! The guy was arrogant to boot, making a big spectacle to all the passengers already seated about how much he was going to extort from us, and soon to everyone within earshot. After several minutes of debate, he started to drive right into me (as I was blocking his way). At that point I'd decided I didn't even WANT to give him our business, no matter the cost. I was shaking with rage as he drove away - The audacity! This "extra" charge was just to pad his own pockets - The cocky jerk! The next bus wasn't for another one and a half hours, so in the meantime we ate lunch and strategized how to deal with the next driver. We figured cell phone calls had been made, and on principle alone we might have to stay another night and take the train. Fortunately, the next driver agreed to take us for the posted ticket price, and even later when he added on an extra 10,000 Dong (60 cents) each for our packs we readily paid it.

The Vietnamese, more perceptibily so than their neighbors, are hard-working, hard-driving business people. In a country where almost everyone is an entrepreneur, I guess you'd HAVE to be to survive. For the most part, every transaction is conducted with a laugh and a smile. These people LOVE to laugh and joke around. But don't let that deceive you or lull you into a sense of safety, because if you're not on your game they'll happily extract as much Dong as they can from you. For Americans specifically, haggling isn't in our nature and we tend to be uncomfortable with it. You ain't in Kansas anymore though, so it's time to learn some new rules -

1. Keep your cool and always smile. Either don't buy it or keep reminding yourself how cheap it is compared to home.
2. Come to the market with plenty of small bills in your pocket as vendors can rarely break a larger bill.
3. LEARN YOUR NUMBERS! for amounts and currency. You'll never get a good deal if you can't even ask for 200 grams or 3 kilos (no, they don't use pounds here). Know that if you're just trying to buy 1 lime, or a handful of cilantro, then you'll pay a premium. Better to ask for the minimum currency (mop nyang) and hold in your hand how much you THINK you should get for that amount, they'll bag up what they think is fair.
4. A "store" will almost always be more expensive than a "stall", but it still might save you money if you're not a savvy haggler.
5. Beware of vendors that try to seduce you with their English, or "Hangers around" who are trying to "help". Invariably you'll get the short end of the deal. Better to head to the back stalls where vendors are shy and probably get less business, so are willing to deal.
6. If you want to buy something, but don't know a reasonable price, there are a couple things you can do. Browse around and watch a local make a purchase, then follow by asking for that same price yourself. If this doesn't work, you can always try another vendor, armed with your new knowledge. Another option is to ask for the price on an item you DO know. If the shopkeeper is reasonable, then you can probably trust your other purchase there.
7. Make yourself a "cheat sheet" of prices ranges for each item (knowing that they CAN fluctuate from town to town) for reference at the markets.
8. Don't ask vendors sitting side-by-side for the price on the same item as they will probably be inflexible. Better to walk down the line a few and try again. If a neighboring vendor DOES catch your eye and agree to your price, be as discrete as you can in your monetary transaction, shouting brawls have been known to break out.

Good Luck!

Check the "link" for photos from the North-Central region

Heavy Thoughts and the Big 3-6

On the pretense of it being my Birthday Week we headed out from Hanoi to the Ha Long Bay area. This incredibly scenic northwest corner of Vietnam has become world famous for it's dramatic karst landscape of more than 3,000 rock islands jutting out of the Tonkin Gulf. While the scenery has more than lived up to our expectations, the friendly people + bustling commercial fishing industry came as an unexpected surprise, and the icing on the (birthday) cake.

Check the "link" for photos from Ha Long + Bai Tu Long Bay

Yet again, we find ourselves entranced and marveling that we've been launched into more modern-day time travel. We certainly enjoyed this in the rural areas of southern China, but all throughout Vietnam it's been surprisingly easy too. Though it's a country bent on progress + modernizing to keep up with it's wealthy neighbors, it's still deeply entrenched in the past and timeless ways of doing things (likely just from the poverty level of many of it's citizens). In the tug-of-war between past + future lay the Vietnamese people - A tough, resilient, hard-working bunch that are almost entirely self-employed. And while most don't make alot of money, almost every family at least owns a home (usually jam-packed with people) + a moto (with the notable exception of those that catch or grow food for a living being at the bottom of the economic ladder), and seem to have no problem putting food on the table. What's even more inspiring about the whole scenario is that universally, the people go about their long day of work with an easy pace and a smile on their face. I keep finding myself wondering "How do they do it?!"
(Photo: View over Ha Long Bay harbor town)



But I digress, if only to put the next in the context of our current surrounds. The point is that we REALLY dig Vietnam. The people aren't over-the-top friendly + engaging as were the southern Chinese, but we've had lots of great experiences with them too. We like their feistiness + easy laughs. We like the grit, the moto/bicycle culture, the brightly painted homes, the walkable cities, the comfortable + ridiculously cheap cost of living... As we've spent the last few weeks searching online for volunteer positions (and 3-1/2 months here in total) we've been living the near-perfect life (You could certainly argue WHO WOULDN'T BE, if they weren't working) for less than ten bucks a day. In the 10-out-of-10 moments I've been repeatedly enjoying (You know, those moments when you know life just can't GET any better) I find myself wondering "Could I live here?" What about cultural differences? - I'll NEVER get into karaoke, and I just can't eat soup for breakfast. What about family + friends? - Most of them won't come here, and how often can I afford to go home and visit. And I did say NEAR perfect for another good reason - As two educated, dependable people we're finding it very difficult to find work (other than teaching English) even volunteering to work for FREE!

The truth is, there was a point awhile back where I REALLY missed home and wondered if we should just forget the rest of the plan and return. Now I'm finding that the longer we're gone + the more we establish a comfy, fulfilling routine here, the more the thought of going home to the rat race depresses me. These posts I've been writing - Will I ever be satisfied again?, Will I ever have time again? - are things weighing heavily on my mind (in addition to the fact that I'm currently making ZERO contribution to society) as I re-think my chosen career and ponder the direction that the next big chapter of my life should take. In this time on the road, I've seen and done so much that has profoundly changed my way of thinking and shaped the strong opinions I now hold about what I feel is important enough to exert my personal efforts towards. In other words, to practice what I preach.

Traveling + living here as cheaply and simply as we are, not spending money on non-essential "junk" - These things certainly give me a sense of satisfaction at our reduced footprint on the planet. Now more than ever, even with my uncertainty about the future, I don't doubt that I/we are doing the right thing. I firmly believe that everyone from the States would benefit from taking an extended vacation in the developing world to better see how excessive our lifestyles are in respect to so many others. Even as I look for "aid" work HERE I know that BIG change is going to have to begin AT HOME because WE'VE set the model for what the developing world is striving for, and that maybe ultimately my efforts are better focused there. There really is no us and them, we're all part of a global whole. Not until Americans begin to reconsider their/our luxurious lifestyle in a more all-encompassing perspective and in light of the current conditions of the planet + it's limited resources will true change begin. We, as apex mega-consumers, hold so much power to change simply with our combined efforts to consume WISELY and LESS. It's also worth checking out the stats on what businesses your investment money is supporting. There's so much evidence out here, if you choose to look, that change has GOT to happen, and NOW! It's got to begin with us.

So as not to end on a doom and gloom note, and because I try to have faith in the human race and our ability to evolve, I'll end with this quote from Treehugger.com, an eco-minded site that I linked to above, as to why they do it -

Our environment is currently facing huge obstacles that have the potential to seriously disrupt our future and the future of all our fellow flora and fauna friends. Keeping that in mind, TreeHugger also sympathizes with the fact that most people aren’t willing to compromise their current lifestyle in order to improve our shared environment, so we have created a place where you can discover how to maintain or improve your quality of life while reducing your harmful impact on the earth. TreeHuggers know that you don’t need to run off to live with the wolves to contribute to the betterment of Mother Nature. (We do, however, prescribe this to anyone with strong urges to pursue cave art and moon howling). TreeHuggers live in the 21st century, make quotidian decisions, consume, have fun and maintain their aesthetic je ne sais quoi. Knowing that apocalyptic predictions tend to paralyze the masses instead of mobilizing them, we also prefer an enthusiastic, upbeat outlook. We live green, through education and action.