The Next Big Move

We kicked up our heels these past few days in Kathmandu, despite the scramble to buy last-minute gifts, get photos burned onto CD, ship stuff home, our last Japanese Encephalitis shots, etc... Feels good to be going out with a bang. We indulged in more of our home-made salads with fresh cheese, tomato + sweet chili paste wrapped in hot, chewy naan - THE best thing we've eaten in our three weeks in the city - Hands down! Washed down with some decent French wine...Mmmm. But I digress.

We wanted to finish with a taste of several of the things that have defined our experience here - A visit to the fierce Shiva image in Durbar Square, where you can almost always see a crowd giving offering; Gazing up at Swayambunath Stupa from the rooftop of our hotel; Enjoying our favorite epicurian treats; Savoring the excitement + energy in the air now that the Peace Agreement has been signed (EVERYONE is out on the streets now selling stuff. It's like a festival!); Saying goodbye to people we've made connections with. We made a point of visiting all our regular vendors for the last time. Some we've been chatty with for weeks, while others took awhile to warm up, but the goodbye's now were all super-friendly + gracious with lots of "Thank You's" + "Namaste's" on both sides. Wow, the Nepali's are nice people! Such a string of faces that have become a part of our daily life here. (Photo: Darin drinking an Everest at sunset sitting in an ancient Durbar Square temple - Patan)

It's feeling harder than I expected to leave after seven exceptional + memorable months on the Indian subcontinent. Now, we move to Southeast Asia for the next phase of our adventure. A place that made such a PROFOUND impression on me during a quick 2-1/2 week visit to Central + Northern Thailand and the Angkor ruins in Cambodia in December '99. I returned from that trip, and for the first time in my international travels, felt different. What affected me so much? In part it was the smiles (for which the land is famous), the golden temples + reclining buddhas, hill tribes, delicious cuisine, lush scenery, astounding ruins, tropical fruits, a simpler way of life, an eastern mindframe, a welcomeness. In a word, I felt "home". If I honestly trace back to the reason I'm travelling now, and even more specifically, my desire to live in + embrace THIS culture for awhile, it stems from that first impact.

So, I return now with hopes, but no expectations. Some things can never be as good as that first time, AND times have changed. I'VE changed. I'm excited for these new experiences + possibilities, but I WILL miss Nepal, as I already miss India and long to return. What to do but say "Goodbye", for now. (Photo: Us with sunset smiles - Bouddha)

Things that Never Happen at Home #1

Being out here traveling is so fundamentally different from my day-to-day at home that I often find myself pondering these differences. There's the obvious - Not sitting behind a desk + computer all day; Not having neck cramps from holding the phone to my ear with my shoulder as I multi-task; No stress; No set routine. Now, in contrast - We brave the hot sun + freezing cold outside; My cramps are now in my legs from walking all day long; We ARE free to do as we like, but we're not out here with endless time or money to burn so we ARE judicious in our spending + in making each day count. When I reflect back at the end of each day, week, month... What are the things that seem worthwhile or even important??? It's the experiences of meeting memorable local characters or other like-minded travelers that you can picture yourself being friends with at home; Of tasting some delicious + unique food that you never even knew existed that you'll try to replicate for friends; A wonderous, soul-inspiring sight that burns itself into your memory and which you revisit later in your dreams; AND those rare moments when the big, bright lightbulb in your head goes off and you gain a new insight. THIS will be my ongoing attempt to capture + relate some of the latter. Here goes...

Intense Eye Contact with Strangers

Well, OK, sometimes it happens when you're checking out a tasty specimen of our species, but generally, people in the west are hurrying down the street window shopping, gazing at the ground, whatever. In developing countries, and more specifically in rural areas, the people are as curious about us as we are about them. To either, it's as if the other walked off the pages of a magazine. I can only speculate that we look as extremely exotic to them as they to us. Or maybe we just look ridiculously weird. I've got to admit the western style of travel wear is a far cry from the clothing of hill tribes, for example. These people have style! Though it varies by country and region, both men + women sport earthy + bold colors, cool hats + sometimes even more piercings than a modern primitive. People here don't shy away, not even the women, but instead give full-on extended eye contact. Sometimes without even saying a word. But, just for a moment, you make an intense connection. I love it!

On the Hippie Trail

Kathmandu - Oft referred to as a living museum. A city that lures both foreigners + Hindu pilgrims alike with unspoken promise - The promise of wonders.

Hippies first discovered it in the sixties, not long after the King had opened the countries borders to the outside world. It was unknown + exotic sounding - The perfect off-the-beaten-path destination. Though heavily touristed now, it still retains some of that wonder if you delve deep enough. Nepal's biggest draw for most tourists are it's mountains predominantly, and architecture secondly. The mountains we've seen, and they ARE all that! The architectural highlight of Kathmandu is, at least for ME so far, just wandering around the older areas adjacent to Durbar Square. Here there are COUNTLESS shrines tucked away in courtyards, temples and older masonry buildings with intricately carved windows. Perfect for hours of aimless exploration.

Speaking of courtyards - Just last night as we were walking home from dinner, we were drawn into the open courtyard of a temple, and were disturbed, but not ENTIRELY surprised to find it crawling with large rats. They were climbing up steps + across altars, nibbling away at all the bits of puffed rice prasad/offering they could manage. This noturnal bustle sent chills down my spine! Just before, we'd passed intersections where, during the day, produce vendors line every imaginable inch of periphery while bikes, rikshaws, cars + people all compete to weave their way through in what is often a full-on gridlock. Now, it was the domain of cows FEASTING on the remains of the day. And the dogs! Lest I forget their ceaseless nocturnal quaralling + howling over food scraps. People + vehicles may rule the day, but animals certainly rule the night here.

But back to architecture - My favorite Nepali architectural detail, besides the pagoda (which THEY, btw, not the Chinese, introduced) is the outwardly canting window box. This beautiful, yet functional design allows anyone inside a discreet view of the street below through wooden latticework while affording those at street-level an optimal perspective in which to admire the remarkable carvings. The disappointing part of Kathmandu is that they've torn down MANY of these exquisite buildings and replaced them (and HUGELY expanded upon) with concrete monstrosities. Darin remembers reading somewhere that the photographer Galen Rowell had once rated the city as a 10 out of 10 back in the 70's, but had lowered his opinion to a 3-4 for this very reason. Having never been here before though, the place still certainly has charm if you stick to the aforementioned areas and outside the depressing tourist ghetto of Thamel. The reknown "Freak Street" still exists, but in name only. There's certainly nothing "freaky" about it left and several storefronts lay vacant. WE'VE come to haunt it for the cheap Indian dhaba (restaurant) where we can both leave full for under $1.50. They also make very good tandoori naan which we've been buying "to go" for scrumptuous fresh cheese + veg wraps which we enjoy in the sunshine on our hotel roofdeck overlooking the square. (Thank You! to our friend Claudia from Varanasi for turning us on to Hotel Sugat)

Today, we head out on bikes for a week-long cruise through the eastern part of Kathmandu Valley. It'll be a refreshing break from the bustle to get back into nature + smaller villages again... the things we REALLY love about Nepal. We'll be missing Thanksgiving at home so I hope you all eat some tasty stuffing + pumpkin pie for us... Mmmmmm!

Here's a "link" to photos from Kathmandu + the surrounding areas

The Annapurna Circuit

Thirty-One Days! The entire month of October, covering around 175 miles (that's about like walking from SF to Lake Tahoe!), with nothing and no one else to rely on to get from one place to another but my own two legs. Not a motorized vehicle to be seen (except a small stretch with tractor + motorcyle taxis), nor even a bicycle - Just good, old-fashioned foot power! And these mountains + valleys are indeed made for walking. In fact, a large part of the circuit lies on a historic trade route where up until ONLY 50 years ago wool, salt + turquoise came down from Tibet and grain, rice, cloth, cigarettes + European goods from the south. Someone spent ALOT of time laying down these beautiful stone roads + stairs (of which any landscaper would be envious), as well as the chautaras by wealthy business owners - Stone benches along roads or encircling trees at perfect height for a standing person with pack to rest their load. The fact that this infrastructure, including water stations, wasn't done for tourists, but has only BECOME touristed with the decline of trade lends to your overall sense of "rightness" with it all. The sense of "belonging" in the scene, not just being an observer.

There ARE modern conveniences - Electricity, though sporadic; Solar hot showers; Indoor squat toilets; Cold beer, though we opted for the local wine/Rak shi; Western fare - But, even having NONE of the above beats the comforts of what we'd be doing trekking at home. First, you're sleeping on the ground in tents, and second, you can reasonably only carry enough food for up to 2 weeks. Here, even in the most RUSTIC lodge you're GUARANTEED a padded bed with plenty of blankets in your OWN room, and sometimes even with an ASTOUNDING view from your BED! Not only that - Villages and/or teahouses are spaced so that within an hour or so you're assured of a place to eat. This certainly makes "trekking" infinitely more cushy!

Don't get me wrong, this isn't an EASY trek by any stretch. Even after a SHORT 5-6 hour day you're bound to be sore + tired, and expect a few 9 hour ones too. I'll speak for myself in saying though that this was one of THE most rewarding + memorable treks I've ever done, and may ever do in my lifetime. The culture, people, varied landscape, varied religions with their beautiful iconography, sunrises + sunsets, apples, grain harvesting... SO many impressions forever imprinted.

We had NO idea, as my previous post will indicate. We figured a quick in and out, then off to other things... Like Tibet, which is now in the "to do later" category. About a week into it though, we got it! And when we realized the magical opportunity we had right in FRONT of us, we just couldn't rush it. We KNEW that sometimes you're lucky enough to be in the right place, at the right time, and if you ARE then you've just gotta slow WAY down and savor that thing for all it's worth. For us, that happened at the end of a long, gruelling day (Day 4 to be exact) and we had just arrived in the very small village of Bhratang - Just two guesthouses, half a dozen homes and ORCHARDS of apples. We were tired + hungry and Darin enquired about the possibility of an apple tasting. Shortly, us + our two Aussie companions were walking the orchards, going from tree to tree and quartering apples. During the next hour, we had some of THE finest heirloom apples we've ever had in our lives! Followed by a tasty dinner at one of the quaint, little lodges with not another tourist around. After this memorable experience we began spending 2-3 nights in several small villages that struck our fancy and doing day hikes up into the hills above for even MORE spectacular views + without the burden of our packs. We got to know + befriend a few different lodge-owners who then invited us in to private family meals + celebrations, gave us gifts upon departing + offered to exchange knowledge upon future return. We were treated with hospitality, particularly in the Thakali region, as if visiting relations.

Now back, I long for these giving people - Their friendly smiles + good cooking. Our morning favorites - Local buckwheat, corn or Kagbeni breads. Virtually non-stop views of some of the highest peaks in the World in all their glacial splendor - Annapurna 2 (26,040'/7,937M), Annapurna 4 (24,688'/7,525M), Gangapurna (24,458'/7,455M), Nilgiri (23,161'/7,060M), Dhaulagiri (26,794'/8,167m), Annapurna 1 (26,545'/8,091M ), Machhapuchhre (22,942'/6,993M). What makes this trek so special is the sum of all of these parts. It's about the opportunity to experience an ancient, vital culture that survives and thrives amidst growing, modern-day influences, AND amidst this majestic scenery. That's what makes the Annapurna Circuit SO much more than JUST a trek.

Only one month, and now I've fallen in love with the deeper beauty of Nepal. Still here, and yet I'm already longing to return. This passage from "The Snow Leopard", written about this region and which we both read on the trek, eloquently sums up how I feel -

And so I, too, prepare to go, though I try hard to remain. The part of me that is bothered by the unopened letters in my rucksack, that longs to see my children, to drink wine, make love, be clean and comfortable again - That part is already facing South, over the mountains. This makes me sad, and so I stare about me, trying to etch into this journal the sense of Shey that is so precious. Aware that all such effort is in vain; The beauty of this place must be cheerfully abandoned, like the wild rocks in the bright waters of its streams. Frustration at the paltriness of words drives me to write, but there is more of Shey in a single sheep hair, in one withered sprig of everlasting, than in all these notes; to strive for permanence in what I think I have perceived is to miss the point.

Check the "link" for photos + check Darin's blog for a more detailed description

Vision Quest - Revisit

I've received a few more enquiries asking how the final results of my Lasik procedure measure up, and I'm thrilled to report - Crystal Clear! For the first time in, forever, I am actually able to spot things before Darin does, and he has better than 20/20 eyesight. Text, birds, distant vistas... All are no longer invisible to my eyes. I wake every morning and still, literally, can't believe my eyes! It IS a miracle :)