You Know You're Watching Indian TV When...

the tele-evangelists look like freaky Babas








you're watching a show called the Bollywood Reporter








there's a channel specifically devoted to cricket








there are more singing + dancing extravaganzas than you care to count







the hip-hop artists have names like Sukhbir








you can watch some old guy who looks like Santa belting out exotic devotional songs







this guy - who I'll simply call Mr. Popular - is on every other freaking channel







the men sport mustaches and dress like bad throwbacks from the disco era







you can watch a movie about Shiva or some other Hindu God 24 hours a day







sitcom characters look like this









talkshow hosts dress like this









the men wear turbans










True fact - I got all this by quickly flipping through the channels one evening in Delhi

Back in Kathmandu

Being back feels so comfortable and familiar that I find myself easily falling back into old routines of places to eat, shop + walk that I hadn't even remembered until being here again. Sometimes I move through the twisting lanes as if on autopilot and experience deja-vu at many a turn. I thought I remembered what a treasure trove of exploration the old city is, but now having explored so many other cities since my last visit, I can really appreciate it for what a rare thing it is. Kathmandu, at least certain areas, feels really old, and the layers upon layers of things built up over time tell such complex stories - blackened ghee from butter lamps burned, surfaces painted repeatedly, the patina of age worn off with repeated touching so that the original brass surface of the temples gleams, additions + modifications to brick buildings... It's a city to walk around slowly, taking in details as you never know what doorway may be a passage into a hidden courtyard with temple, or what shrine you may stumble across. Of each I dare guess there may be hundreds if not thousands - seriously.

Just yesterday I spent the day in neighboring Patan, a short ride over the river. We spent some days, and a night, here before and I longed to stroll again down those quiet lanes and witness the big Thursday turnout at the Kumbeshwor Shiva Temple. It began to rain during my walk and I realized that that might be the best time to walk around these old quarters - almost void of traffic, people clustered together in doorways awaiting a break, and frequent pagoda eves for me to stop and take shelter too as I stop to examine woodworking or other details. It forces time to stop and just absorb the whole scene.



Later - The rain has stopped for now and there's a respectable crowd at the Temple. The dogs, sheep + goats are still here too and looking as healthy as ever thanks to the prasad (offering food) that people hand-feed them. Kumbeshwor is one of only two five-tiered, pagoda-style temples in the valley and cuts a striking profile as it rises above all the low, brick buildings around. The murmur of people talking is punctuated by the ringing of bells - a tinkling from a shrine nearest to where I sit, a resonating Gong from the main temple, a sleigh-bell at another small shrine, and one most similar to an old-fashioned cowbell from the temple with the long line of people waiting to get in and present their offering. I leave from here to find my other favorite place in Patan - the double secret back way. Actually, I'm sure there's more than one, but this is the longest, and therefore best, that I've found yet here or in K-du proper. I find the courtyard without too much difficulty, memorable from the striking collection of old buildings in good repair that line it. More difficult is remembering the correct path. I duck through one low doorway, that leads into another courtyard, and through another doorway to a third, but then hit a dead end. I retrace my steps and try a different passage that I'd bypassed, but that one leads to a dead end too. I go all the way back to the first courtyard. So many doors + doorways... which to chose? I follow an old lady through one, and then another, before losing her as I stop to admire the buildings. Continuing on, I go through four more low passageways - and one that is so long it's pitch black inside - before finally popping out at a main road. A living labyrinth - and all just to provide access to the warren of homes. Is that cool or what?! That's what I mean by this place being great for exploration.

Some may argue that Kathmandu's not what it used to be... but you can say that for pretty much any place on the planet in this day and age. Lucky for me, despite it's flaws, I think it's still a very cool place. The fact that we've spent nearly 6 weeks here on this trip must speak for itself. Maybe some of these images will too, but just in case...

This image is one of the more elaborate and well-kept old homes that face onto the hidden courtyards mentioned. Typical courtyards I've seen are fronted by anywhere from ten to forty, 3-4 storey homes and each contains at least one or more shrines or temples in their center. This open courtyard layout seems to work well for the residents as there are always people hanging out, working or playing.

This old brass gate and lock are completely encrusted with black from years of age and the sticky residue left by burning butter lamps. As part of the prayer/offering ritual, people rub on posts, door headers, and any facial image - be it god or animal - while reciting their mantras. This allows for the gleam of the metal to shine through.

This is one of the thousands of small shrines that are tucked into every nook and cranny - or even smack in the middle of a road - around the old part of the city. Old trees, particularly banyan, are sacred to Hindus + Buddhists alike and are almost always tied with ribbons or have some place for people to make offerings at their base. This chicken was busy feasting on the rice offerings when I walked past.

Check the "link" for more photos from Kathmandu

Langtang-Tamang Heritage Trek

Day 1 - Kathmandu to Syabrubesi (Bus, 11 hours)
The drive to the trail head was dusty and incredibly cramped. We were two of the fortunate to receive seats (a sometimes perk for foreigners), though an extra row had been added and our knees were rammed against the seats in front. Every free inch of the aisle + the entire roof was jam-packed with villagers + their goods - items unavailable outside the capital, Kathmandu. The ride took 11 hours and was made more bearable by the pleasant demeanor of our fellow passengers and the scenic landscape of terraced hills + river valleys we passed through. Darin + I marvel at how good it feels to be back in the mountains, and in Nepal. At least for us, there's an awe-inspiring + humbling feeling that comes from being amidst massive, glaciated peaks and exotic, mountain people that's like nothing else on this earth.

Day 2 - Syabrubesi to Lama Hotel (1460M - 2410M, 7 hours)
It's ironic to me how memories of pain are never as strong as those of pleasure. It's been 19 months since our last visit to Nepal, and our last trek, and I've forgotten how difficult the first few days can be. Walking for hours - up and down, and up again. Always up. My pack weighs heavily on my back and I'm pouring sweat despite the cool air. But this is another thing I love about being back in the mountains too - pushing myself physically. "Teahouse" trekking, something uniquely Nepali, certainly tempers the discomfort. All that's required of me is to walk, and carry as much gear as I'm comfortable with. Meals, accommodations, showers + porters are all available along the way at minimal cost. What a treat to plop down at he end of a long day and have everything provided for me while I sit and write in my journal. (Photo: Darin walks through Langtang Village)

Day 4 - Langtang Village to Kyanjin Gompa (3330M - 3730M, 2-1/2 hours)
The village is quaint - stone homes festooned with prayer flags, yaks, old women with shrivelled faces spinning prayer wheels. We decided to spend the morning walking around the village and along the long mani-stone wall above town, savoring the views of the distant mountains. We ate a simple lunch of omelet + chapati before the short walk to Kyanjin Gompa. Normally a collection of tourist guesthouses, Kyanjin Gompa has become more of a yak-herders settlement in the off-season. We spent the remainder of the afternoon writing, drinking tea in the sun room + watching yaks while the cold wind blows outside. The light's getting good now + the clouds are clearing so it's time to bundle up and go enjoy the sunset. (Photo: Mani-wall above Langtang Village)

Day 6 - Kyanjin Gompa daytrip to Langshisha (3730M - 4160M, 4 hours up, 11 hr. day)
We spent the entire day hiking alongside the Langtang Khola (river). It was a relatively easy walk and we didn't see a single soul save for yaks, Tibetan horses and a herd of Tibetan tahr. The landscape above treeline starkly dramatic. The day was a bit more cloudy than the last three have been, but we're still feeling incredibly fortunate for the good weather during the beginning of the monsoon. It's been paying off to wake with the dawn and hit the trail early as the clouds start to move in by 10:00. Yesterday's hike to the viewpoint above town was equally spectacular and afforded a great 360 of the glaciers and valley. We spent most of that day too soaking it all in and not returning 'til sunset, exhausted + ravenous. We go to bed right after dinner to stay warm and Darin reads aloud for awhile before we fall fast asleep under the thick pile of blankets.(Photo: Hiking up the valley to Langshisha)

Day 8 - Kyanjin Gompa to Ghoratabela (3730M -2992M, 5 hours)
It's been non-stop for the past 7 days, so we started this morning off slow. We lingered over our typical bowl of muesli with hot yak milk (actually, it's "nak" for the females). Our stash of yak cheese is already gone, so we paid a visit to the village cheese factory to stock up. We learned that this small shop cranks out 6,500kg of cheese in a mere 6 months!Unfortunately, they're just beginning the seasonal process of collecting milk from the herders who have brought their yaks here for summer grazing in the high pastures, so the cheese won't be aged for another two months. Still, it was a learning experience. On another interesting note, our guesthouse proprietor also told us that he + his brother are moving some of their yaks back down because two babies were just killed by a snow leopard - Wow! We decided to escape the cold + clouds that have moved in and follow suit. Back down at Ghoratabela we were treated to a magnificent sunset on the top of Langtang II - a straight 11,000 vertical feet above us. Tonight I stare up at a sky full of more vibrant, visible stars than I've seen in a long, long time. It's pitch black around me, save for the dim candlelight barely visible through our window, so that I can not even see my hand before me. I stand and watch this twinkling show until the thought of snow leopards cows me into returning to the room. (Photo: Up close and personal at Langtang Glacier)

Day 9 - Ghoratabela to Thambuchet (2992M - 1460M, 7 hours + 1-1/2 hour bus)
The weather looks like it's taking a turn for the worse so we decide to stay North in the rain shadow, near the Tibetan border. It's an exhausting + quick hike down to catch the one daily bus to the last stop on the line - Thambuchet. The ride is a bone-rattling switchback straight up and then straight down the hill above Syabrubesi. We get our first inkling for what we're in for seeing people standing + watching our bus' labored progress. One man in particular stands wearing red leggings, bunched at the ankles; a handwoven + frayed red smock, belted at the waist with his trusty Gurkha knife tucked in the band; and a mop of unkempt hair above wild eyes. He has more character than anyone I've ever seen approximated in a film. He's of a minority group called the Tamang - descended from nomadic Tibetans. We are now beginning the Tamang Heritage Trail and if this is any indication it's bound to be interesting. (Photo: Gatlang Village photo shoot)

Day 10 - Thambuchet dayhike to Gatlang (1738M - 2238M, 2 hours up, 10 hr. day)
This is one of the most characterful (in every sense of the word) villages I've ever had the opportunity + pleasure to visit. The village is clean + has a rustic beauty - Homes are two-storey and made of wood + stone with a roof of large, wooden shingles weighed down by rocks. The second floor is reached by ladder and is where the family lives (typically multiple generations), while downstairs is open and used as a cow shed/wood storage area. The people are so colorful - men like I've described already and women in long skirts with embroidered wool aprons, pillbox hats + immense golden earrings that stretch their lobes to the point of breaking. The villagers proved to be as curious about us as we were about them and it wasn't long before we bridged the communication gap through pantomime and were gladly obliging their requests for photos. At one point while Darin was playing photographer, I sat near an old woman and listened/watched her bemoan her old age. She pointed at my hair and smiled, then pulled at her limp, gray hair - Blah! Then she stroked my cheek gently before roughly pinching her own wrinkled one - Blah! She squinted into my eyes admiringly and rubbed on her own as if to clear her vision. She sighed and shrugged her shoulders, then she smiled at me and squeezed my hand. She didn't need to utter a word, the message was clear - Appreciate your youth because we all get old, and it sucks! We filled our memory cards there, and ran out of battery power too. And in the end, we simply ran out of time and had to hurry back to beat the dark. It was a very special day. (Photo: Woman winnowing grain. Check out her earrings!)

Day 12 - Thatopani to Thuman (2607M - 2338M, 4 hours)
We squeezed in a final dip (at 5:30AM) before breakfast and hitting the trail again. Yesterday's half-day soak in the steaming hot springs was the first rest period we've taken in 10 days. My legs feel like noodles and my back aches. The water feels glorious, so we sit and allow ourselves to be enveloped by the warmth + swirling steam. Villagers from nearby towns come and go and it's interesting to slyly watch their interactions. Women sit together smoking + scrubbing each others backs. Some gently bathe their babies. Young boys come to stare at bare breasts (we would have never seen this in India) and get a real-life sex-ed lesson. A few men come and go too. When we're sufficiently pruney and it's our turn to go it's with a bit of regret, but the weather's turned rainy so we keep moving on. Tonight we're in yet another traditional village, Thuman, staying in the home of a friendly Sherpa couple. Sunset brings with it a break in the clouds and we finally glimpse the incredibly imposing, jagged, snowy peaks of nearby Tibet as we sip a local wine called Rakshi. We dine on Dal Bhat (what else?!) on the wooden floor of their home. The wife cooks skillfully over an open fire right on the floor and the smoke seeps up through the gap at the eave. The fire serves as our only light. Everything is so simple and exists out of pure necessity. Our conversation is simple too and limited by the language barrier, but we smile and say Mmmm alot. We fall asleep to the sound of rain. (Photo above: Typical trail through terraced fields + old villages, Photo below: Darin at Langtang viewpoint with prayer flags)


Day 14 - Timure to Syabrubesi (1762M - 1460M, 5-1/2 hours + 3 hr. stop in Briddim)
We're back safe, exhausted, sweaty + stinky, but we did it. I guess you couldn't say it was a good trek if it was any other way. Now, as I sit on the back terrace of Potala Guesthouse (run by a feisty, old Tibetan woman) overlooking the Langtang Khola, I can see in an even broader sense how suitably we're ending this trip. The Vipassana course was the first phase, but spending some quality time in nature and time amongst these minority peoples reaffirms many of the lessons we've learned in compassion, humility, simplicity + gratitude. Life here is hard to be sure, but it's lived with a sense of joy that serves as a vivid reminder that we don't need so much to be happy. It's all a state of mind and acceptance on the good fortune we have just be alive and surrounded by family + friends. As we begin our transition to life back in the U.S. now, I pray these lessons have been ingrained enough to stick with me amidst the commercialism + consumerism that is all-pervasive there. I pray to care more about the things that really matter.

Check the "link" for more Langtang photos