Living the Life of the Raj

Srinigar (Mon. 7.17.06)

Sitting now on the back veranda of "Flora", our floating palace on Nageen Lake, quieter cousin of Dal Lake. These houseboats are a legacy from the British Raj who were not allowed to own property, so instead they built elaborate floating accommodations, complete with hand carved wood ceiling + screens, multiple bedrooms, dining + sitting rooms. We feel like Majarajah + Maharani in this decadence.

We've just had a 1-1/2 hour sunset cruise around the lake and through floating water gardens, watching Kingfisher dive for dinner + sparrows chase each other. Now the men paddle by on their low-floating "shikaras" - One burdened with wood, another is selling Kashmiri shawls, another displays papier-mache boxes and yet another has a mobile 7-11 set-up. We tell them "Shukria, but we can not". Now, the sun sets on the balmy evening. We could be in the tropics but for the northern latitude here. Maybe it's the monsoons down South. We thank Allah that the grenades did not keep us away from this magical place. From right here, right now, trouble seems a million miles away. The Muslim call to prayer drifts through the evening air. Or should I say calls? They come from every direction as mosques litter the city. You can easily discern half-a-dozen different voices + unique prayers. This lasts for around 15 minutes as the remaining light disappears from the sky.

For so many years the violence has kept people away from the "Veil of Kashmir". It's unfortunate for the one million living here because their livelihood has been so threatened in this tourist-based economy. In hard times many have had to sell their boats in order to survive. It's not surprising then that we've found these hearty people to be cut-throat businessmen who have mastered the psychology of how to make a sale + get a bigger tip. To truly enjoy Kashmir you in turn must master the art of smiling, complimenting and declining, constantly. The people are also master wood-carvers + rug-makers, and they're not bad cooks either! We may stay awhile...



(2 Days Later)
Kashmir still casts it's spell over us after interesting walks through the winding alleys of the "old town", past mosques, markets and old masonry + timber buildings. Here, people are friendly + curious with not a tout to be found. Here, people live + children play. Here, we can buy delicious local paneer (cheese) + sesame bread (very much like a bagel). We took a 6 Hr. long shikara ride yesterday and the highlight was the hours we spent getting a waterfront perspective on this area. These narrow canals filled with duckweed, lilies + lotus, and lined with shops, homes + floating gardens, seem much more at home in Southeast Asia than Northern India. What a surprise!

Back at the palace, we've taken to spending more time in our bedroom than the veranda or sitting room for the peace + solitude. Outside, men with goods to sell spot us from across the lake and quickly row over. Inside, we have four servants constantly hovering about so we have zero privacy and constant distraction. When we read, they offer advice or to bring us to quality craftsmen. When we eat, they stand around and rearrange items on the table to appear useful. They are killing us with kindness! We may make a break for it before the taste for this place sours...


(2 Days Later)
We're finally tearing ourselves away today. If it weren't for the constant sales pressure + lack of privacy this would be a DREAM destination! Srinigar is truly a unique city and perfect for slow exploration by foot or, even better, by shikara. Both of which we've done our fair share. Everyone I've heard tell of this place has a love/hate relationship with it, and I guess I'll be the same. It will live long + fondly in my memories though, despite it's imperfections.

Here's a "link" to more photos of Srinigar