(HAI) DANG! This is Tasty

And I don't say that lightly. Vietnam, as I've said before, is a vegetarian's delight, but no city more so than Hue. For reasons that may forever be unknown to me, this city is also one of the most buddhist in the country and it seems that the demand of the monasteries might have something to do with the abundance of tasty + unique vegetarian "meats" and other food specialties.

Hue city is also home to a unique blend of coffee that is also one of the tastiest we've enjoyed in the country. We start every morning off with a cup of this nectar - Hai Dang coffee. And I'm not sure whether I'd agree with all this -"Hue people like drinking absolute coffee so much because of its bitterness but mellifluence, subtle aroma but temptation, especially, it is very appropriate to Hue weather." - but it IS dang good!

After coffee and a healthy breakfast of outrageously tasty tropical fruits (many not available at home) with oats + coconut-soy milk, one of us usually makes a dash across the Perfume River by bike. Destination Cho Dong Ba, for unique fixings for lunch + dinner.

There are a several countries around the world where being vegetarian isn't so difficult. In a few of those it's downright easy. And in only a handful of those it's a sheer pleasure. Vietnam is one of the latter. Part of what makes it so unique is that never before have I had the wealth of protein options, in addition to a spectacular array of fresh produce and french-style baked goods to mix + match to satisfy my palate.

Protein? you ask. Yes, especially if you excercise regularly or have an active lifestyle. (Here's a "link" to calculate your daily needs. If you're a meat eater, chances are you eat WAY more than the daily recommended amount and probably think I'm crazy for being veggie anyway, so you might as well stop reading now.) This is an important component of a balanced meal that is SO often missed or neglected by restaurants that offer "vegetarian plates", and even by some vegetarian restaurants. Who's going to pay $20 for a plate of vegetables?! Give me a break! There are FANTASTIC restaurants in San Francisco and the Bay Area, notably Millenium, where you can feast on an exciting array of creative, protein-rich dishes. For Vietnamese, in the vein of which I'm speaking, try Golden Era or Golden Lotus, run by our local Buddhist contingent. You might notice all the mock "meats" and find it a bit of a contradiction. Au contrare, these tasty copycats are sometimes even tastier than the real thing. Au Lac is a Vietnamese company that exports around the world. Look for their meats and others at your local asian supermarket. (Photo: Dong Ba Market in Hue, Vietnam has THE best array of vegetarian meats, fish and others that we've EVER seen.)

In our 3-1/2 weeks here in Hue, and 4 months total in Vietnam, we've had the luxury to do alot of experimentation and have come up with a slew of tasty meals, all involving no more "cooking" than washing, chopping, and occasional blanching in boiling water. We've made it an enjoyably slow, meditative process that pairs well with sipping of chilled, local Vang Dalat wine. Here are some of our favorites -

• 
  BBQ Chicken Slaw Sandwiches (pictured at left)
  
  Veggie Spicy Chicken Chunks
• Sliced Tomato
• Shredded Cabbage
• Fresh Basil
• Sliced Green Onions
• Mayo
• Baguette

I assume this is self-explanatory. Simple, but oh so satisfying.

Here's one that comes almost fully prepared from the Com Chay seller pictured above. Great for a quick lunch.

Banh Beo Chay (aka "Blaub", pictured at right)

• Rice Flour Wrappers stuffed with mashed yellow lentils
• Sauteed, sliced Shallots
• Chopped Tomato
• Chopped Cilantro
• Dipping Sauce - Soy Sauce, Fish Sauce, Sugar, Rice Vinegar, Water, Sesame Seeds, Chili

This Hue city specialty is readily available at the markets for pennies. The original recipe uses minced shrimp + pork for the filling, but the version we've tried certainly hasn't suffered from the substitution.

There are many more, and suffice to say we're trying them all :)